what frequency?

[roads]

I bought a 07 burner 3 wood and a 75s prolaunch blue shaft to be put together for my dad for Christmas. My dad swings high 90's with a driver and has a nice trajectory when hit well from the speed he generates. My question is what frequency should I have this club made with club length 43 inches long? Thanks

[LowPost42]

Re: what frequency?

PL Blue 75S for a high 90's guy?

I might consider doing it untipped, cut to 43" and let the freq be whatever it is.

More importantly, I'd require that the shaft be FLOed and installed correctly.

[roads]

Re: what frequency?

I have the same club, but I swing around 107, mine cpm's at 268. My dad hit it and really liked it. Did I pick a shaft that won't work, if so I won't install it. I wanted to get him a cool Christmas gift and I thought that it would be perfect, but I don't want to spend my hard earned $ on something that won't work and he won't use. He only hit it once, but like I said he loved it. Thanks for the reply lowpost, please let me know what you think.

[LowPost42]

Re: what frequency?

I've learned that what should be the 'perfect shaft' sometimes isn't.

Ran into a guy who swings in the mid to low 80's. Played a titleist hybrid with an NV 75 S - completely and totally wrong for him.

However, he loved the results and hated the shafts I was trying to fit him into.

If your Dad liked your combo, I'd give your club to the clubmaker to blueprint, then have him build your Dad's club to the same specs.

[roads]

Re: what frequency?

Thank you lowpost. I'll give it a go!

[LowPost42]

Re: what frequency?

To flesh out WHY your clubmaker needs your club:

In a phrase: Manufacturing tolerances.

See, every head is produced +/-3g for headweight, +/- 2 degrees for loft and lie(save the Ashton E3 which had ridiculously tight tolerances)

In other words, just because it says 15 on the bottom doesn't mean it's 15 on the face. It's 'acceptable' for it to be 13 or 17.

So your clubmaker should be able to take your existing club and come fairly close to making your Dad's club the same. Now the shaft should be close in terms of overall weight, balance point and flex. But did you know that as the mandrels change, the shaft flex profile also changes? In other words, when they have to change a shaft wrapping mandrel at the factory, the shaft changes a little. In other words, if you try a new shaft that you absolutely love, you may want to buy 2 or 3 just in case yours breaks - a perfect example was the AccuFLEX Evolution - first gen very tip stiff and butt stiff. By the 3rd gen it was softer overall (partly by design, they softened the butt some) but a mandrel change softened up the tip, too.

But enough about that. If the new head is lighter than yours it's an easy fix. If it's heavier, then a little counterweight may be required. However, if the club is within a swingweight point, within 4g in static weight, it'll be fine. If the loft is the same or even a degree weaker than yours, that'll be OK too.

It'll be cheaper to have him simply throw together your Dad's club without blueprinting yours - but by blueprinting yours you'll get the best match for your Dad.