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OEM name etched on sole - which paint to refill?

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  • OEM name etched on sole - which paint to refill?

    Hello,

    Just wanted quick advice on selecting the correct paint and technique for filling in etched writing on clubheads. I like to restore golf clubs and I have some old Cleveland clubs where the "Cleveland" etching has the filled paint and has worn away from use.

    Many thanks

    Koon

  • #2
    Re: OEM name etched on sole - which paint to refill?

    Koonl, get some enamel paint (the type that you use for scale model painting) and use a brush to fill the lettering in. Build it up in layers so it dries quickly bu adding just a small amount at a time. You can use a hair dryer to speed the drying up if you like.

    Just out of curiosity, it isnt an old set of Tour Action Reg 588's with the square grooves is it? I just ask because I recently refurbished a set of those.

    D.

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    • #3
      Re: OEM name etched on sole - which paint to refill?

      Originally posted by Mizunoman
      Koonl, get some enamel paint (the type that you use for scale model painting) and use a brush to fill the lettering in. Build it up in layers so it dries quickly bu adding just a small amount at a time. You can use a hair dryer to speed the drying up if you like.

      Just out of curiosity, it isnt an old set of Tour Action Reg 588's with the square grooves is it? I just ask because I recently refurbished a set of those.

      D.
      It is indeed! How did you guess? I'm more interested in "no-fuss" clubs with less stamping on the sole as possible. I did use some enamel but that didn't last long. I was advised to use some arcylic paint, but this feels a bit "spongy". Did you coat it with any other lacquer, or would the enamel be hard and durable enough? Maybe I didn't put enough layers on. Is this the paint that OEMs use?

      Thanks

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      • #4
        Re: OEM name etched on sole - which paint to refill?

        Enamel would be what they would use Koonl, they would bake it hard though, which is why it lasts a lot longer from new. The enamel will be enough without lacquer. As I mentioned just build it up in thin layers. The problem is that the 'Cleveland' is in white (at least it is on mines) and white is notoriously hard to get right.

        Acrylic is water based and can be tougher but its not as vivid a colour and it doesnt stick to metal as well as enamel. You could lacquer over the acrylic I suppose and then heat the heads in an oven to cure it better, you would have to remove the shafts of course.

        I took my set out the other day for a game and they were still pretty good. It's a shame they are illegal now with the box grooves and all.

        D.

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