Making a set of irons

[irhyper2]

I am about a 25 handicapper and am playing with an old set of Tommy Armour Ti-100. I have decide to order a set of heads from Dynacraft golf. The ones with the 3-4 and 5 utility clubs. I know that shafts are extremely important, but with 10,000 different ones out there, with different kick points, different torque, weight, etc. how the heck does one ever determine which one is best for him. I do not know of any place close by that I could go to that could test my swing. I live in the area of Denton Texas. I hit a 6 iron about 140 straight as a string. Any recommendations.

[gord962]

Re: Making a set of irons

Most importantly, do you prefer graphite or steel shafts for oyur irons? If you are not sure, graphite is a bit longer, steel is more consistant and accurate.

[irhyper2]

Re: Making a set of irons

Most importantly, do you prefer graphite or steel shafts for oyur irons? If you are not sure, graphite is a bit longer, steel is more consistant and accurate.

I prefer graphite, but how do I determine the torque, kick point etc? Or is that a consideration only in woods?

[gord962]

Re: Making a set of irons

There are definitely more choices when it comes to shafts for woods than irons.

As for choices, you always want the lowest torque possible when selecting graphite shafts. The lower the torque, the less twisting the shaft will do.

As for kick point, most graphite iron shafts have a mid kick point, but you can find the odd shaft with a low kick point.

As for flex, I would suggest with your distance with a 6 iron that you should be hitting senior or "A" flex shafts.

My own personal recommendation would be the Harrison Tour Classic II iron shafts.

[bonzi_532]

Re: Making a set of irons

I also reccomend a senior flex because of your distance on your 6. You want very low torque and a low kick point, also you want a decently light shaft

[LowPost42]

Re: Making a set of irons

The defacto standard is True Temper Dynamic Gold shafts.

They're quality, and relatively cheap.

Head to www.truetemper.com, and find their shaft fit app.

The other thing you need to determine is whether your heads are parallel or taper hosels - and buy the appropriate shafts (.370 taper or parallel tip).

A better shaft company for cut and glue jobs would be Mercury.

If you go steel, torque isn't a consideration.

As for kickpoint, the thing you need to know is that ball flight is inversely proportional to kick point - so a high KP will produce a low ball flight, and vice versa.

As Bonzi pointed out, your distance is short, so you may want to look into True Temper Dynamic Gold Lite - in an R200 flex, then tip trim 1" longer than recommeded (ie they suggest 4" trim for 9i, so you would trim 3").

And for $20, it might be worthwhile building a spinefinder.

[irhyper2]

Re: Making a set of irons

The defacto standard is True Temper Dynamic Gold shafts.

They're quality, and relatively cheap.

Head to www.truetemper.com, and find their shaft fit app.

The other thing you need to determine is whether your heads are parallel or taper hosels - and buy the appropriate shafts (.370 taper or parallel tip).

A better shaft company for cut and glue jobs would be Mercury.

If you go steel, torque isn't a consideration.

As for kickpoint, the thing you need to know is that ball flight is inversely proportional to kick point - so a high KP will produce a low ball flight, and vice versa.

As Bonzi pointed out, your distance is short, so you may want to look into True Temper Dynamic Gold Lite - in an R200 flex, then tip trim 1" longer than recommeded (ie they suggest 4" trim for 9i, so you would trim 3").

And for $20, it might be worthwhile building a spinefinder.

Thanks. I went to the true temper site and they recommend a TX-90 in R-flex. Just curious, why add one inch to length? Is this for more flex, distance etc?

[gord962]

Re: Making a set of irons

Not add 1 inch to the length, tip 1 inch longer. You would still have the length the same by cutting the top of the shaft to the correct length. The reason to tip 1 inch less is to increase the amount of flex in the shaft.

Judging by your distance and age, (I'm not saying you are old, just that after you pass about 35 your swing speed will gradually decrease) if you are testing for a regular flex now, you will be in a senior flex in no time. I wouldn't waste the time and money putting in R flexes if I were you, (personal opninion though...)

Also, I would move to graphite shafts to reduce the shaft weight which will help increase your swing speed. The Classic II's I mentioned are designed for the senior golfer who is starting to lose distance.