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Club head alignment while re-shafting

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  • Club head alignment while re-shafting

    I have a question about alignment. I am new to the club making scene, I am having fun trying to consume as much of the forum members knowledge as I can. I acquired a set of shafts with the grips on and the tips already prepped. I also received a set of iron heads, my question; is there a proper way (tips & tricks) to attach the heads to the shafts while maintaining the grip “logo” alignment. Or should I just install them and worry about the alignment during the next grip replacement as the grips are new.

  • #2
    Re: Club head alignment while re-shafting

    The one method you can use is to clamp the head in a vise, then make sure the grips are logo up. You could also stick the shafts in the heads, set them at address, and try to twist them into position.

    The preferred method (to me), is to install the shafts as close as possible to grip up, let the epoxy cure, then move the grips.

    If you're going to be doing your own regripping, I will tell you this for your own good: Buy an oil-less air compressor. It will make doing regripping fast and easy (and, well, ok, fun).

    You do NOT want to be messing around with solvent and tape and trying to ram a grip on while the tape is wet... I did three grips this way, then bought a compressor.

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    • #3
      Re: Club head alignment while re-shafting

      Regripping with tape and solvent is simple. I'm not about to buy a compressor just to do grips (I only replace about 15 sets of grips a year). If you are just a hobbyist, buy a syringe to apply solvent. (I use the syringe that they give you to give medicine to infants.) It makes the job FAR less messy.

      The only problem you may run into is removing old tape after removing the grip. If you are having no luck, use a heat gun to warm up the glue on the tape - it will peel right off.

      As for Wixcat's question about alignment, I would spine align the shafts and not worry about the grip alignment if the grips are already installed. If the shafts are steel, there wil be two spines, make sure on alignment that the sine is aligned parallel with the target line. Or, if looking at the club from address position, 12 o'clock being the top of the shaft, the spines should be at 9 and 3 o'clock. If the shafts are graphite, there is only one dominant spine. The dominant spine should be aligned at the 9 o'clcok position.

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      • #4
        Re: Club head alignment while re-shafting

        Gord, you're right - a compressor just for grips is a bit, well, pricey. But it also works well for car tires, bike tires, inflating inflatables, blowing dust off... And a small compressor can be had for ~ $100 CDN. I've got a small tank Team Mechanix 1/3 HP compressor, and it works just fine for me. Assuming the buildup tape is OK, the grips are removed and replaced in less than 5 minutes. It's even faster if the old grips are junk - I just cut 'em off!

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        • #5
          Re: Club head alignment while re-shafting

          Originally posted by LowPost42
          The one method you can use is to clamp the head in a vise, then make sure the grips are logo up. You could also stick the shafts in the heads, set them at address, and try to twist them into position.

          The preferred method (to me), is to install the shafts as close as possible to grip up, let the epoxy cure, then move the grips.

          If you're going to be doing your own regripping, I will tell you this for your own good: Buy an oil-less air compressor. It will make doing regripping fast and easy (and, well, ok, fun).

          You do NOT want to be messing around with solvent and tape and trying to ram a grip on while the tape is wet... I did three grips this way, then bought a compressor.
          Thank you for the information, I will just try and eye ball the alignment marks on the grip for now. I will have to look in to the air/grip replacement. I do have a non-oil compressor unit. I will look for information that describes in detail the removal and installation process? One would think that applying forced air would turn the grip into a balloon.

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          • #6
            Re: Club head alignment while re-shafting

            Yes, if you don't follow certain steps, you'll blowup the grip.

            Here's the quick method:
            Required tools: compressor with output of 70-90 PSI, blow gun with tapered nozzle used for inflatables, a 10" section of "shaft tube" (those silly things that "keep your clubs organized" in your bag) slide into a section of high pressure hose 1 3/4" O.D. to be referred to as "protector" (warm the section of high pressure hose to facilitate sliding in the "shaft tube").

            To install grip: clamp shaft in vise, apply 8" section of masking tape to shaft butt, dip mouth of grip in solvent (mineral spirits) or soapy water to depth of 1/4 to 1/2 ", start mouth of grip onto shaft in usual way, put tapered nozzle into vent hole of grip, hold grip near mouth, apply burst of air while pushing grip onto shaft from the mouth end of the grip. Grip slides on. Takes a little practice to learn how long a burst of air to give it. Air goes down inside of shaft, tries to escape out of the grip, grip expands and slides on. Remove air gun from vent hole while holding grip fully down the shaft. To align grip apply short burst of air while rotating grip to desired alignment. Start it right and you can skip alignment! This method is the easiest for installing grips on oversize butt Taylor Made Bubble shafts. No special tools needed for installation This is all done faster than most can read the how to explanation!

            To remove grip: Place "protector" IMPORTANT over grip, punch through tape behind the vent hole (my tool is a piece of pegboard hook pressed into a hole part way through a golf ball and sharpened to a point on a belt sander), if grip tape was used to install grip shoot some solvent (mineral spirits) into the vent hole, put airgun nozzle into vent hole, apply long burst of air, grip will expand in the "protector" as air bubble travels down the shaft and tries to escape from the mouth of the grip and "pop" out the mouth (place a rag over shaft to catch the solvent (if used) spray. If air doesn't reach mouth of grip, remove airgun and reapply solvent. Once "popped" you can remove the "protector" apply bursts of air while twisting and gently pulling the grip off the shaft. Twist while applying air! You will know where the twisting is needed (if not needed, grip will just slide off shaft on cushion or air). Process is "testy" on thin grips like Callaway OEM, Tour Velvet, and! dried out corded (cut these off). All others can be saved 95% or more of the time as your skill at this method improves. If grips were installed by using MASKING TAPE as explained above you can easily save Winn grips. Winn grips on regular double stick have a save rate of approx. 90%.

            For those who don't own a compressor, Harbor Freight usually has one on sale for $79.99-$99.99, blow gun and hose (coiled is easiest to use) will add about $20.
            With time savings, tape and solvent savings and ability to save and reinstall grips this is a very worthwhile investment! Get an oil lubricated compressor which will last many, many years! They run less and are quieter besides.


            This is the fastest and easiest way to do grips - bar none.

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