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Re: How to fit a shaft?
Well, you'll need some golf club epoxy, a heat source (either a propane torch or heat gun), something that will protect the head from heat (I use club shield from GolfWorks, cool zone is another similar product, I've heard (haven't tried) a ton of vaseline will work), something to cut the shaft with, and something to measure the shaft diameter and hosel bore. Something to clean the hosel (a drill bit that's hosel sized), and something to clean and prep the shaft (sandpaper). Oh - and a shaft puller. There are hydraulic ones, but I bought one off eBay (user iesa2) for 40 US plus shipping.
Shafts are not completely interchangable. Wood shafts are often .335" or .350", and iron shafts (as a rule) are .370" at the tip.
Now, provided that your shaft will fit:
Heat up the ferrule, and use some pliers to pry it off. Keep applying heat EVENLY to the hosel (that you've coated generously with your head protectant), keeping the pressure constant with your shaft puller.
Once the head pops off, set it aside to cool. Prep your new shaft. If you have another ferrule, slip it on now. Ferrules aren't necessary with steel shafts - they're cosmetic.
Once the head is cool, drill it out. This will help clean up the old epoxy. Grab some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits and a Q tip (cotton swab), and use them to wipe down your freshly prepped hosel. Allow the hosel to dry, and mix up your epoxy, roll the tip of the shaft through it, and insert it into the head while twisting the head on (this will smear epoxy all over the shaft, and the inside of the hosel.) Pull your shaft out, blow it out (to remove epoxy from the inside of the shaft, dip again into the epoxy (if necessary), and put the shaft back in the head.
Let dry for the recommended cure time.
Add your grip, and let 'er rip!
As I posted before, straight assembly is pretty easy (and pretty cheap). Now you're talking about repair (essentially). This is obviously more expensive, because you need more toys.
Well, you'll need some golf club epoxy, a heat source (either a propane torch or heat gun), something that will protect the head from heat (I use club shield from GolfWorks, cool zone is another similar product, I've heard (haven't tried) a ton of vaseline will work), something to cut the shaft with, and something to measure the shaft diameter and hosel bore. Something to clean the hosel (a drill bit that's hosel sized), and something to clean and prep the shaft (sandpaper). Oh - and a shaft puller. There are hydraulic ones, but I bought one off eBay (user iesa2) for 40 US plus shipping.
Shafts are not completely interchangable. Wood shafts are often .335" or .350", and iron shafts (as a rule) are .370" at the tip.
Now, provided that your shaft will fit:
Heat up the ferrule, and use some pliers to pry it off. Keep applying heat EVENLY to the hosel (that you've coated generously with your head protectant), keeping the pressure constant with your shaft puller.
Once the head pops off, set it aside to cool. Prep your new shaft. If you have another ferrule, slip it on now. Ferrules aren't necessary with steel shafts - they're cosmetic.
Once the head is cool, drill it out. This will help clean up the old epoxy. Grab some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits and a Q tip (cotton swab), and use them to wipe down your freshly prepped hosel. Allow the hosel to dry, and mix up your epoxy, roll the tip of the shaft through it, and insert it into the head while twisting the head on (this will smear epoxy all over the shaft, and the inside of the hosel.) Pull your shaft out, blow it out (to remove epoxy from the inside of the shaft, dip again into the epoxy (if necessary), and put the shaft back in the head.
Let dry for the recommended cure time.
Add your grip, and let 'er rip!
As I posted before, straight assembly is pretty easy (and pretty cheap). Now you're talking about repair (essentially). This is obviously more expensive, because you need more toys.
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