Spining... NBP... FLOing... CONFUSED!!!

[smillerlsu]

Hi,

I have recently gotten the clubmaking bug, and have just made my own bearing spine finder. Also, I recently paid $10 US to have a new shaft "pured" at my local component supply shop. Actually, now that I know better, my shaft was FLOed by twanging it in a vise with the clubhead in the playing position (toe up, twanged horizontally). So, I have been playing in my workshop with spining, neutral bend points, and twanging away the past couple of days.

Now, from what I gather on-line (and see in my shop) is that my interpretation of the NBP/spine alignment in the clubhead and the FLO I find are contradictory... so either I'm not getting something, or there are mixed takes on positioning. When I twang a graphite club (using a 5" wooden clamp with a 5/8" bore located in the last 5" of the finished club length, head on, toe up, twanged horizontally) I appear to find the FLO with the NBPs on top and bottom (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock of the club face). But, (I think) I keep reading that the NBPs should be at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock! Not to mention that I am also finding shafts (steel and graphite) with one spine and two NPS at ~120º from each other (and am not having any luck FLOing a steel shaft). My first inclination is that the FLOing is a better measure (for graphite, at least), but I'm REALLY confused and could use any input from this group.

Sorry for the long post... but I'm frustrated and don't like not understanding things like this!

- Scott

[LowPost42]

Re: Spining... NBP... FLOing... CONFUSED!!!

Hi Scott,

You'll hear about 'Type 1' and 'Type 2' shafts when it comes to spining and FLO. Dave Tutleman has a wonderful explanation on how all shafts are really type 2 (2 NBP and 2 spines. NBP 1 and 2 and spines 1 and 2 are 180º from each other - and each spine is 90º from an NBP).

This just goes to further what you've already found. The 'spine' will be at 90º (and then again at 270º), and the NBP will be at 0º and then again at 180º. Please note the numbers are just examples.

Now, I've seen the spine move as I trim a club. The lesson here is that there's no point in puring a club that hasn't been cut to length. What I haven't checked is whether or not the FLO plane changes.

IMO, FLO > spine. Spining is just a good way to figure out whre to start FLOing. Once you mark your FLO plane, then it's up to you - spine towards target for more control, or spine at 12 o'clock for more accuracy.

If you cannot get a good FLO, check your clamp. The tiniest bit of wobble will make FLOing very tough, if not impossible.

I had a 2x4 clamp (5/8" hole), and after a dozen shafts, the hole had softened, and I couldn't FLO. I'm working on a more permanent solution.

[smillerlsu]

Re: Spining... NBP... FLOing... CONFUSED!!!

LoPost,

Thanks for the reply. I had seen the Type 1 and 2 notation before, and those designations (N-S-N-S, etc.) make sense to me. I also have now found John Kaufman's notes on the Club Scout site (VERY good information), but would appreciate any links to Dave Tutelman's discussion of all shafts being Type 2 (couldn't find it on his site). It sounds reasonable to me (the 90º alternation), but I'd like to see his writings on it, too.

So, if I'm getting the gist here, pick a stiffer (spines at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock) FLO plane for control, weaker (spines at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock) FLO plane for distance? Or something like that? I guess any interpretation would find both orientations acceptable since we are actually trying to make the shaft behave as if it were perfectly symmetric.

As for the clamp, I went to find some 2x2 to drill out and cut, and of course the lengths of pine available at my local megacenter were lacking, to say the least. However, I came across a Parson's bench 6" replacement leg. It's constructed wood (rather than single plank), and is a good bit harder than regular lumber so I think it might hold up a little better. It cost about as much as a full 2x4, but it's nice and sturdy. I'll let you know how long mine lasts, OK?

Regards!

Scott

[LowPost42]

Re: Spining... NBP... FLOing... CONFUSED!!!

LowPost,

Thanks for the reply. I had seen the Type 1 and 2 notation before, and those designations (N-S-N-S, etc.) make sense to me. I also have now found John Kaufman's notes on the Club Scout site (VERY good information), but would appreciate any links to Dave Tutelman's discussion of all shafts being Type 2 (couldn't find it on his site). It sounds reasonable to me (the 90º alternation), but I'd like to see his writings on it, too.

http://www.clubmaker-online.com/intro.html

Dave Tutlemans site.

So, if I'm getting the gist here, pick a stiffer (spines at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock) FLO plane for control, weaker (spines at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock) FLO plane for distance?

Reverse that. Spines @ 3 and 9 for control (the flexible part - NBP - is now at 12 and 6), spines @ 12 and 6 for distance.

I guess any interpretation would find both orientations acceptable since we are actually trying to make the shaft behave as if it were perfectly symmetric.

More or less. You've got a firm grasp on why we even bother.

As for the clamp, I went to find some 2x2 to drill out and cut, and of course the lengths of pine available at my local megacenter were lacking, to say the least. However, I came across a Parson's bench 6" replacement leg. It's constructed wood (rather than single plank), and is a good bit harder than regular lumber so I think it might hold up a little better. It cost about as much as a full 2x4, but it's nice and sturdy. I'll let you know how long mine lasts, OK?

It never even occured to me to use something similar to plywood... I've got some hardwood stock (1x6) that I'm going to cut into 4 pieces and put together. My thought is that hardwood will stand up longer.