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  • #1

    Iron shafts

    Hey

    I reshafted my King cobra II's a couple of months ago with some true temper (command) shafts and they don't feel they same as the original shafts.They feel as if I cut them from the tip only which I didn't -actually cut them to reg.flex.Went to the golf store and they said the weight was D6-I guess standard is D2 or D3? I'm hitting them further (a little lower too) but the impact doesn't feel right.

    Question is:

    What would be a good inexpensive shaft to get these back to standard weight .380 parallel if there is any more out there-don't mind shimming as I did with the one's now-and would shimming have anything to do with the feel at impact?

    Thanks,
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: Iron shafts

    There's quite a few factors at play, here.

    1) A .380" hosel. This is odd, as most parallel hosels are .370", and even the tapered hosels (I think) are .355".

    2) The D6 swingweight. There are a few ways to get the swingweight down. One is to backweight the club (add weight at the grip end). Every 4 grams will decrease the SW 1 point (so 8g to get to D4), the other option is to hack 1/2" off - this will lower the SW 3 points (to D3).

    3) The boardy feel (at least, this is what I assume you're talking about in reference to the 'all tipped' comment). This could simply be a function of the bend profile of the shaft, or you may have over-tipped the shafts. If you're about to tell me that you 'tipped the shafts according to the manufacturers' recommendation' I'll tell you that you may have tipped them too much. That's the usefulness of a freq. machine or an NF4.

    As for a cheap shaft, I don't think they come any cheaper than the TT command.

    You may want to try Apollo shafts - they've got some cheap ones in the lineup.

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: Iron shafts

      Hey

      Actually the apollo shafts (real tight steps)were in the heads before I changed them out. As far as cutting -I did go by mfg.-tip cut each club for reg flex and then butt cut to length. The .380 is an odd diameter(normally .370 or .355 for irons) I believe-but for this model cobra II this is what I have found out.The command shafts that are in now are .370 parallel and had to shim them.I am probably going look for some tt lite pullouts or something like that.I love these heads even though their 10 yrs old but I don't think I have the right shaft in them right now.

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: Iron shafts

        A follow up:

        I think I am going to put some graphite shafts in these heads.....I am looking at the ust ironmaxx 75 .370.

        Question:

        I read a few times on graphite parallel iron shafts that you only butt trim to length (no tip trimming) is this correct?

        Thanks

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: Iron shafts

          Dawg, the question is how much PTS (parallel tip section) does the shaft have? If it has 12" or more, chances are you'll be tip trimming. If it's 3" or less, you'll simply butt cut. Please note, this is a rule of thumb, not stamped in concrete. Double check the manufacturer recommendations.

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          • #6
            Re: Iron shafts

            Hey Lp,

            The description for these shafts was tip parallel length =5.50".I'm guessing that's what you're talking about....If it is maybe I can just butt cut to length?

            Thanks

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: Iron shafts

              I'd guess butt cut only. You may want to tip trim a little in the short irons to firm the shafts up a touch. 2" in the shortest club should do.

              Comment

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