3 wood vs. Driver

[AFilbrun]

Over the past year, my ability to hit a driver has all but disappeared.
I used to be pretty consistent with it (straight or slight fade) and
could get decent distance. It started slipping away, and in Fall
of last year, I stopped using it completely.

This year, I'm playing in a league at a new course and not having
a driver has really set me back on quite a few long par-4's and
par-5's.

The issue is that I hit my 3-wood really well....straight or slight fade
and it's very consistent. It's a 15 degree TaylorMade V-Steel. I do
fine with it but I'm often thinking I'd be in so much better shape for
an approach if I could just get more yardage off the tee.

My driver is an 11 degree Callaway 454 (regular shaft). When I hit
it these days, I mostly hook it. If I really slow things down a bit
and swing maybe 2/3 or 3/4 swing, I can 'sometimes' keep it nice
and straight but when I do this, I'm not getting any more distance
than a normal 3-wood shot.

Aside from a bit different ball position, shouldn't the swing pretty
much be the same...driver vs. 3-wood. I know the 3-wood has more
loft but it's not that much more is it?

My assumption is that it's a mental block at this point but I thought
I'd ask if anyone else has experienced this or if there's something I'm
missing in terms of driver swing vs. 3-wood swing?

The other thought is that maybe I need a stiff shaft for the driver?
My swing speed has increased over the past year but I'm not sure
if this could be an issue.

Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.

- Andy

[RandomHero1090]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

The issue is that I hit my 3-wood really well....straight or slight fade
and it's very consistent. It's a 15 degree TaylorMade V-Steel. I do
fine with it but I'm often thinking I'd be in so much better shape for
an approach if I could just get more yardage off the tee.

My driver is an 11 degree Callaway 454 (regular shaft). When I hit
it these days, I mostly hook it. If I really slow things down a bit
and swing maybe 2/3 or 3/4 swing, I can 'sometimes' keep it nice
and straight but when I do this, I'm not getting any more distance
than a normal 3-wood shot.

If you are swinging the driver properly, your launch angle might be too high with a regular flex, 11* driver.

Aside from a bit different ball position, shouldn't the swing pretty
much be the same...driver vs. 3-wood. I know the 3-wood has more
loft but it's not that much more is it?

Off the tee, you can swing a driver and 3 wood the same way. However, the extra loft and shorter shaft of the 3 wood will give you more control. Also, the clubhead is smaller. Makes it easier to square up. However, you said you are hooking, which I address later in this post.

The other thought is that maybe I need a stiff shaft for the driver?
My swing speed has increased over the past year but I'm not sure
if this could be an issue.

That is really hard to say without some more facts. If you are swinging over 85 mph, you could need a stiff shaft with a bit lower loft. You need to go get fitted for a driver.

HOWEVER, you mentioned that you have been hooking the ball....
Hooks can be tricky little buggers to deal with. You might be coming Over-The-Top OR you path might be perfect. The common thing to cause a hook is a shut face compared to the club's path (pointing left of the path). You need to have it square (straight shots related to your path) or SLIGHTLY closed (little draw).

Make some slow swings and see exactly what your club head is doing at impact. Don't hit balls. Just swing down to the impact zone and look at the club face.

[bdbl]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

If you are hitting your TM 3w well then try a Max OR 14 degree driver (or as LP would say a Thriver) similar loft , longer shaft should / could get you consistency and distance.

[AFilbrun]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Thanks Random... when tested a year or so ago, I was in the 85mpg range
and from working with a speedstik over the past few months, it 'feels' as though my swing speed has increased but I have not had it tested.

I'll try the slow swing w/out a ball as you suggest and see if I can figure out what's happening.

I definitely have a lot of swing thoughts creeping in when I get to a tee,
driver in hand...this is what made me think it's more mental than physical.

[AFilbrun]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

If you are hitting your TM 3w well then try a Max OR 14 degree driver (or as LP would say a Thriver) similar loft , longer shaft should / could get you consistency and distance.

Thanks. I've thought about that. One other thing...I got in a habit
of swinging a bit too upright and as I tried to get a little flatter, I've
noticed, at times, that I overdo the flatness of my swing and I'm
assuming that can cause some hooks. That may be a part of what's
going on (lately) and perhaps the great loft of the 3-wood hides that
a bit better. That wasn't an issue last year, however and the problem
was still there.

[jambalaya]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

I use my three wood quite often in a round of golf. I play so many holes where a driver is just not necessary. I can get close to 250 yards with my three would so why use a driver on most holes? Get more profecient with the three wood and pull out the driver when you really need it. If you are swinging pretty well with your other clubs, making good contact, chances are you can hit the driver when needed. But like most of us you are going to have some wayward drives. The pros have the same problems with the driver, why would you expect not to have problems. Because the driver has such a long shaft the club head travels a long way compared to our other clubs. If you are a little off on your swing errors are magnified. Don't give up on your driver, just use if more strategically.

[AFilbrun]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Thanks Jambalya...I appreciate the reply.

I can hit the 3-wood pretty consistently but can't hit driver at all. It's all over the place but mostly bad hooks.

I've done ok with longer irons and hybrids etc. I guess I'd just like more
options - i.e., a driver and short iron on a par-4 but it seems out of the
question these days.

I'll keep at it though. Thanks.

[golfseeker]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Like you one of my golfing buddies was having problems with his driver as well so he decided to check with a pro. The pro told him to try a 2 wood. The 2 wood is a Cleveland Hi-bore with 12 degree loft and a stiff Fujikura shaft. He fell in love with it immediately. It was last years model so the price was reasonable. Less than $200 American. He now hits the ball at least 20 yards further, with a slight draw, than he hit his old Cleveland Launcher with 10 degree loft and stiff shaft. Just thought I would bring this story to your attention because it may help you.

[RandomHero1090]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Like you one of my golfing buddies was having problems with his driver as well so he decided to check with a pro. The pro told him to try a 2 wood. The 2 wood is a Cleveland Hi-bore with 12 degree loft and a stiff Fujikura shaft. He fell in love with it immediately. It was last years model so the price was reasonable. Less than $200 American. He now hits the ball at least 20 yards further, with a slight draw, than he hit his old Cleveland Launcher with 10 degree loft and stiff shaft. Just thought I would bring this story to your attention because it may help you.

The Cleveland HiBore XL 2-Wood is a sick club. They might be making a 14* verson with a smaller head so you can hit it off the fairway!!!! Kinda like the Ping Rapture (huge head for a 3 wood).

[RandomHero1090]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Thanks. I've thought about that. One other thing...I got in a habit
of swinging a bit too upright and as I tried to get a little flatter, I've
noticed, at times, that I overdo the flatness of my swing and I'm
assuming that can cause some hooks. That may be a part of what's
going on (lately) and perhaps the great loft of the 3-wood hides that
a bit better. That wasn't an issue last year, however and the problem
was still there.

Yes, a flatter plane is good with the driver, but too flat will cause a lot of problems. You will get the club "trapped" and will have to flip your hands through in order to get the club around. You have heard of "OVER" the top, well, this is "UNDER" the path.

Gotta say thank you. You made me find one of the best articles I have ever read in Golf Digest. This is a great article that gives some SOLID tips.

Golf Digest: The #1 Golf Publication!

[golfseeker]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

The Cleveland HiBore XL 2-Wood is a sick club. They might be making a 14* verson with a smaller head so you can hit it off the fairway!!!! Kinda like the Ping Rapture (huge head for a 3 wood).

I am talking about the original Hi-bore of last year....not the new XL. I have not tried this years XL models at all.
Golfseeker

[AFilbrun]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Like you one of my golfing buddies was having problems with his driver as well so he decided to check with a pro. The pro told him to try a 2 wood. The 2 wood is a Cleveland Hi-bore with 12 degree loft and a stiff Fujikura shaft. He fell in love with it immediately. It was last years model so the price was reasonable. Less than $200 American. He now hits the ball at least 20 yards further, with a slight draw, than he hit his old Cleveland Launcher with 10 degree loft and stiff shaft. Just thought I would bring this story to your attention because it may help you.

Thanks. I've been looking for something like this lately and I'll see if I can locate one to check out. The frustrating thing is that I did go through maybe 6 mos. when I was hitting driver pretty well....250-280 and keeping it in play. I'm not sure how I got off track and I hate to buy a new club if there's a chance I can get back on track. Thanks again!

[RandomHero1090]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

I am talking about the original Hi-bore of last year....not the new XL. I have not tried this years XL models at all.
Golfseeker

Oh yeah, I knew you were talking about the older HiBore, but they still make that 2-wood club even with the newer model.

You are right. You could pick up a HiBore right now, new, for under $200.

Heck, I got a 10.5* stiff flex that I would unload for under $150. Its like brand new.

[golfseeker]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Oh yeah, I knew you were talking about the older HiBore, but they still make that 2-wood club even with the newer model.

You are right. You could pick up a HiBore right now, new, for under $200.

Heck, I got a 10.5* stiff flex that I would unload for under $150. Its like brand new.

IMHO it all has to do with the shaft and the how one swings with that shaft in his/her hands. The club head, itself, is not that important anymore as far as the end result. Someone said that it's not the arrow, it's the Indian. At the practice range I let a better player hit all three of my drivers (Callaway Fusion, MacTec NVG and the Cleveland HiBore...they all worked beautifully for the better player). He hit the ball far better than I could ever dream of. I cannot blame the club for my inferior play and ball striking. I have no excuse except I need to become a better Indian....if you get my drift.

[BrianW]

Re: 3 wood vs. Driver

Lets take a step back here. What's the longest hole on your course and what is it's index?

Lets say it's 540 yards par 5 index 1 or 2, if you can hit a drive with your 3 wood / 2 wood / driver of 220 yards, that will leave you 320 yards to the green. 320/2 = 160 yards, do you have a club that will hit 160 yards consistently? This may be a five or six iron or maybe a 22 deg recovery wood/ 7 wood. So now you are on the green or pin high in three.

Most of us will have an extra stroke on this hole, some two. Up and down, two or even three puts and we have a net par or even net birdy. So what's the problem?