Jumbo Golf Grips

[cyc53870]

Re: Jumbo Golf Grips - Validation of opinions

Sounds interesting and worthy of further investigation...

[davieboy1872]

right, first let me ask this question, and excuse my ignorance, i have only been playing golf for 2 and a bit years.

should it be the same swing for every club, but just a different set up??

thea reason i ask is this, i am pretty solid with my irons and wedges using the same technique throughout but maybe just changing the ball position. i have good balance, rotation, weight transfer and lag. i strike the ball first, get great flight and reasonably good control and distance. example, i carry an 8 iron around 157 yards (in scotland i may add) and quite accurate, i will hit a green from 160 yards 8/10 times approx. my clubs generally go up by 8 - 10 yards, so my 5 iron i carry around 195 yards.

leading to my 3 hybrid and 2 fairway woods. using the exact same swing i still get reasonable effectiveness, maybe not as solid as my irons, but generally happy enough.

on to my driver. i have a stiff shaft which was fitted for me (on a day i was hitting the ball well). if i use the same technique as above my driving is really unpredictable. i can sky it, hook it, slice it, block it, top it. ocassionally i hit it well and carry it around 245 - 250 yards, but there is NO consistency at all.

any ideas??

[SwingLikeHogan]

Re: my driver problem

right, first let me ask this question, and excuse my ignorance, i have only been playing golf for 2 and a bit years.

should it be the same swing for every club, but just a different set up??

thea reason i ask is this, i am pretty solid with my irons and wedges using the same technique throughout but maybe just changing the ball position. i have good balance, rotation, weight transfer and lag. i strike the ball first, get great flight and reasonably good control and distance. example, i carry an 8 iron around 157 yards (in scotland i may add) and quite accurate, i will hit a green from 160 yards 8/10 times approx. my clubs generally go up by 8 - 10 yards, so my 5 iron i carry around 195 yards.

leading to my 3 hybrid and 2 fairway woods. using the exact same swing i still get reasonable effectiveness, maybe not as solid as my irons, but generally happy enough.

on to my driver. i have a stiff shaft which was fitted for me (on a day i was hitting the ball well). if i use the same technique as above my driving is really unpredictable. i can sky it, hook it, slice it, block it, top it. ocassionally i hit it well and carry it around 245 - 250 yards, but there is NO consistency at all.

any ideas??

I must quote my pro on this.

"Swing is the same for each club. Position of the ball changes - Driver off the front heel through to short irons off the centre of your stance. Hit down on the back of the ball with irons; the divot should be forward of the ball, not behind it. With the driver, tee the ball up so that the top of the driver is lined up with the centre of the ball and try to hit the tee not the ball."

Works for me when I remember to do it. :-)

SLH

[davieboy1872]

Re: my driver problem

ill give it a go, the only thing i need to change is the trying to hit the tee

[kbp]

Re: Draw and Fade

Simply moving the ball back, all other things being unchaged, will more likely result in a push fade or, at the least, a straght push . A push, obviously, the club is still moving out to the target line. If you have a square (to the stance) face at impact with a neutral ball position, most people will have a slighlty open face before the neutral ball position (ball moved back in stance). Depending on how open, a fade, a slice or maybe a maybe a straight push if you are square with the path. Most people will not have a clubface closed to the path before their neutral ball position.

To answer Niel's question, and to expand on what has been said, it depends on the shot shape and trajectory. For instance, if you want hit a high draw with the driver, you will almost certainly have to play the ball forward to hit it on the upswing and as a result your clubhead will be moving left of the stance line at that point... a pull. If the face is closed (relative to path), you will be pull hooking it. If the face is open, pull fading. If you want to hit a low punch draw with an iron, you likely have to play the ball back in the stance to hit it on the downward part of the arc, which will also deloft the club. At that point, the arc is moving outward toward the target line.....a push. If the face is a bit closed, push hook. A bit open, push fade.

Many Pros teach you to point the clubface where you want the ball to finish and swing in the direction you want the ball to start. This just does not work and defies the laws of physics. For anyone interested then look up 'D' Plane and the 'New ball flight laws.

This "old" SETUP PROCESS most certainly DOES work for many people and has for years. Jack Nicklaus, for one. He sets up the shot the "old" way and the ball goes where he wants it to, therefore it ABSOLUTELY works for him. Not only that, his ballflight will and ABSOLUTELY MUST conform to the laws of physics, D-plane, and it always does. Jack's PROCESS and his PERCEPTION of what is happening ABSOLUTELY does not have to conform to anything, as long as it works.

Physics would imply that Jack's method will overhook a hook, for instance. But it doesn't, for him, obviously. Just because you set the club in one direction, does not guarantee it will return that way, especially when you alter the grip strength which will affect the balance of the club, it's rotational intertia, and our bodies reaction to this change in balance. If the ball flight is what he wants, then obviously the physics of the impact were satisfied. (He may have had a natural tendency to return the club slightly less closed than it was at setup, as an example)

This is a long way of saying, many great golfers have had a process that "overcooked" or "undercooked" the SETUP in order to achieve the proper physics at impact. Not the way I would do it, but the proof is in the pudding for some of the greats.

[mahbo]

Re: No Arms Equals No Slice

Hi krudler ace

Been following Paul Wilson a bit of late. I have to say he has helped my game tremendously!

He is spot on

Mahbo

[BrianW]

Re: No Arms Equals No Slice

Hi krudler ace

Been following Paul Wilson a bit of late. I have to say he has helped my game tremendously!

He is spot on

Mahbo

I agree, he has some good ideas on how to create club head speed with relaxed arms.

[madelineluck1011]

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[kennyc]

Re: No Arms Equals No Slice

I'm also trying Paul's methodology.

Swinging with passive hands and arms that are solely driven by the turning of the legs takes some getting used to - especially from a former "arms" swinger like me.

I played yesterday trying to follow his teachings for the first time with mixed results. Nearly every drive was straight, long and in the fairway. Distances varying from 250 to 280 yards. These distances were no better than those from my previous multitude of swing techniques but consistency of direction and dispersion were much improved - and it felt effortless! Didn't notice any draws or slices.

I still had trouble getting onto my front foot and finishing in a picture book style with the club across my back and facing the target (but then I always have). I guess I've always felt worried that to do so would result in blocks to the right or slices and I can't seem to get myself to actually do it. Yet some instructors say it happens automatically. Personally none of my playing partners finish "properly" and neither do most of the other golfers in our club.

Another thing was my iron play. I hit some amazingly good shots and some terrible hacks. I guess it's just a question of practice with the new method.

I'm not sure whether the wrists should get involved in this swing as the arms and hands are passive.

When I played I didn't actively use anything from my shoulders to my fingertips apart from my arms on the backswing and relied on a gravity-driven release and the turning of my lower body to close the clubface.

Any ideas on how to finish properly and what wrist action (if any) with this swing?

Thanks,

Ken