Re: Shopping for a driver

Since I have never bought a name brand club with a off the rack shaft I won't disagree. My comment was based on several factors:

Callaway had a club demo day and had their 454 Driver with what they claimed was a stock shaft (at least they claimed it is the same one you buy off the rack) and 4-5 other high end shafts (Pro Lauanch, Fujikura etc. basically the ones the pro's use) and diferent flexes for each. I demoed all of them and some of my playing partners did as well. I can say the results veried between us, some of the people thought the stock shaft was the best. I thought the Callaway stiff stock shaft for me performed better then the other shafts except for the regular Fujikura speeder shaft. But I am not sure the diference would warrant spending a $100 taking it out and replacing it.

I guess I do not care what term they use as for describing the flex of the club, I have heard Callaway does mismark their clubs on purpose because most golfers want to swing a lower degree driver and a stiffer shaft then they should. By having the shafts play softer and the degrees actually higher then they should they trick golfers into playing clubs closer to what they really should be playing and have better results with their clubs.

I did recommend testing the club first which should help find a good match. My point is that the actual shaft (even though maybe plays soft) is not a bad a bad shaft. Sure you may play a stiff shaft Callaway when you should play a regular in other types of shafts. I also can see if you actually need a stiff shaft that it might cause problems. But that is true of all shafts you should not simply rely on the terms stiff/regular etc.(actuallly most of the shafts have some swing speed recomendation for their shafts) and you can not automatically gain a ton of distance by randomly picking a high end shaft and putting it in for the stock shaft. You also need to be careful in that if it is a stiff Callaway shaft, not to assume you need a stiff high end shaft.

Bob

Re: Shopping for a driver

You make a good point, Bob.

I'm not saying that the stock shaft is garbage - just that it isn't the same as the aftermarket shafts.

Also, the stock shafts can be used - just not by all golfers.

Re: Shopping for a driver

I guess you guys are speaking on a higher level (in terms of skill and swing speed) :P

I asked my pro yesterday and the reply I got was that most of us beginners usually fall ino the regular swing speed so a regular flex is suitable most of the time. If I read you guys correctly, you are actually saying that yes but if I go get a Callaway stock, that might actually be labelled as stiff, so if I go and get a regular from a Callaway stock shaft, it might actually be too flexible for my regular swing speed?

Does this happen for the other brands as well? I'm actually more inclined towards a TaylorMade or Cleveland :P

Re: Shopping for a driver

Not only does it happen for other brands, it happens for all brands. If I got you an 'R' flex in every model shaft (both OEM stock and aftermarket), you'd find that some shafts play similarily, but that those groups of shafts play totally differently from other shafts, and that each group (that play similarily) may spec out to close to the same flex, you'd get some wildly different flexes across the spread.

So what we're saying is that don't walk in and ask for a stiff. Or an xstiff. Or a regular. Go and grab a club (ignore the shaft) and hit it (or swing it on the monitor, or hit it into a trajectory mat with a radar nearby). The traj mat and radar will tell you what kind of loft you need, and demoing the club and watching your whole ball flight will tell you about the shaft.

Re: Shopping for a driver

Here is my two cent story. I went to a local clubmaker and asked him to make me a driver. I was, and am on a budget so he suggested a Grand Monarch 375cc head, 9.5 degrees of loft. He measured measured wrist to floor and said I needed a 43.5 inch shaft. I tried several graphite shafts and found them to be too light. He installed a True Temper X-100 shaft and Winn grips. The total cost, $68.00. I asked him what the difference, in performance my club was to a higher end club. One word answer, "nothing". My club was designed at or near the maximum cor and was made from the same top quality materials. See your local clubmaker and ask if they have some older model components. I was able to save enough to buy my Taylor Made RAC wedges and a Wishon putter with the money I saved.

Re: Shopping for a driver

That Grand Monarch was an outstanding design when it first came out. I'm still a big, big fan of Wishon stuff - in fact, I've got Limited Edition 550C's in a box, and am thinking about putting the new 560's into play (when they're released).

Re: Shopping for a driver

Thanks for the great example!!!

Re: Shopping for a driver

Have you all heard of Tour Golf Products? Why do they seem so cheap??

http://www.tourgolfproducts.com/index.asp

Re: Shopping for a driver

**cough**clone**cough**

They're cheap because they're built with low-end components. I can build you a driver cheaper than that, if you're interested. The difference will be that I'll modify the low end to play better (but probably still not as consistently as good components)

Re: Shopping for a driver

what about making forged blade irons? say like 8-pw, how much would it be?

Re: Shopping for a driver

Heh ok my question again - clone means they are supposed to be imitating a well known brand model? Do the models featured there actually imitate some well known models? If not, are they still considered clones, or just another low-end brand?

Re: Shopping for a driver

OEM - original equipment manufacturer - ie Titleist, Callaway, Taylor Made
-they design and develop their own equipment. Good customer service, very high price.

Component - same as OEM, but do not sell premade sets and don't throw millions of dollars into advertising and player sponsorship. Good customer service, reasonable price

Clone - copy OEM clubs, but to avoid patent infringement lawsuits can not use the same material or something else that is vitally important. Zero customer service and the price is too good to be true.

Re: Shopping for a driver

If you want to get a good blade (ie Snake Eyes 600B) you can make each club for about $50 - $60 each (using a TT DG shaft and Tour Wrap grip).

Re: Shopping for a driver

Simon

Do you have any launch monitors in Singapore? I havent been to one myself but I hear they're very good for finding your optimum driver spec?

Re: Shopping for a driver

Hi,
I had not been to try out one for myself as well. I believe places like transview should have it since they club fit Pings over at bishan range area. Anyway the reason why I never got for any launch monitors is mainly because the places that do those usually only cater for those buying new drivers ... and their drivers are usually pricey and limited to some brands.

For me I got to do it the old boys style ... try and error ...