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Shaft types for different driver heads

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  • Shaft types for different driver heads

    Hi, this is my first post so I hope it all works and makes sense....

    I have recently bought a 8deg Ti driver to complement my set, which came fitted with what I think is an extremely long graphite shaft. I was already looking at having my clubs shortened by 1/4 to 1/2 an inch as is, because I feel a little uncomfortable holding the grip low down, anyway......

    Now I'm wondering if I can have the shafts from my original set moved up one club, ie. old 1 wood steel shaft goes to Ti driver, 3 wood shaft goes to old 1 wood, 5 wood shaft to old 3 wood. Only thing is, I've never seen a Ti driver with a steel shaft and am wondering if there's a technical reason why it cant or shouldn't be done.

    Of course the other option is just to have them all cut down, but I like the idea of having the same type of shaft in each club.

    Any suggestions?


    My Clubs are a few years old now:
    Tommy Armour 845 8deg Ti with Armour stiff graphite shaft
    Tommy Armour "Top Scott" Stainless drivers 1,3,5
    Tommy armour "Black Scott" irons 3-SW
    all fitted with precision rifle 5.5 steel
    Last edited by agame; 08-18-2007, 05:24 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Shaft types for different driver heads

    You're describing 'hard stepping' - moving the shafts 'up one' in the lineup. As long as the hosels are all the same (.335 or .350) then you should be fine.

    The reason you don't see steel in the modern driver is twofold. One, steel is usually heavier - even the most ultralight steel shafts don't come close to the average driver shaft weight. Steel can be a good choice for someone who's quick from the top, or very strong, or comes over the top, as the extra weight helps them 'drop into the slot'. The other reason is that OEM's are building their drivers longer and longer so that Joe Average Hacker can hit it as long as Tiger. (What they don't tell you is that Joe will hit it as far one in twenty times, and only as long as Tigers' poor drive).

    Like it's often been said: If the best players in the world are on the edge of controlling a 45" driver (most play around 44"), what in the world makes you think you can do a better job at 45" or more?

    Now, for an answer you didn't ask a question to:

    By hard stepping your shafts, they'll effectively play stiffer, as the head you're moving them into is lighter than the head it came from.

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    • #3
      Re: Shaft types for different driver heads

      That sounds very positive then. Only downside is that I lose my 5 wood but then again it's an excuse to buy a hybrid:P

      Thanks for the advice.

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