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  • dynamic flo

    It seems to me the only thing that matters is flo that can be seen. I found that the spine was almost exactly 90* from the table test(although the shaft had a slight bend which could have forced an error(it was bent .004 inch out of kilter (I know this because a cigarette paper is .002 and 2 papers at a drag fit filled the gap). However I like this method because it is dynamic, a bit like the old type of car static wheel balance compared to today when they are done dynamically. Have a look at this and have tried it with stunning results. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5SW2...eature=related Take note he does not twang the shaft, but deflects it with a careful push.

    Regards golfshooter

    PS. Tell me if this link gets screwed up, I'm not real good at this.
    Last edited by golfshooter; 11-27-2010, 10:43 PM.

  • #2
    Re: dynamic flo

    Some simple reading would have saved this guy a lot of trouble.

    John Kaufman (of Club Scout FA's fame) has shown repeatedly that you can put the "head CoG" a foot away from the shaft tip with no appreciable change in the FLO plane (and really, why would head CoG change FLO plane?)

    FLO > Spine.

    I always, always, always put FLO plane to target, and appreciable spine (if any) to 12 o'clock.

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    • #3
      Re: dynamic flo

      Originally posted by LowPost42 View Post
      Some simple reading would have saved this guy a lot of trouble.

      John Kaufman (of Club Scout FA's fame) has shown repeatedly that you can put the "head CoG" a foot away from the shaft tip with no appreciable change in the FLO plane (and really, why would head CoG change FLO plane?)

      FLO > Spine.

      I always, always, always put FLO plane to target, and appreciable spine (if any) to 12 o'clock.
      Fair enough. During my searches for information the only thing I found out for sure was that there was no real agreement on where to put the spine. I found many, many hot debates on the subject. But , I have a background in engineering and this test is repeatable, and shows that even a few degrees of movement off plane causes the club to do nasty things. I just like dynamic tests. To me they tell the truth and make sense. I am still learning and at the very beginning of club building as you know, so I bow to your experience, I will try to find information by Kuafman and expand my knowledge base. My back has taken a turn for the worse so I haven't been able to test my club in the field. I have tested a lob wedge I built in this fashion and it is performing beautifully.
      Just a question though, I have heard that one must never, ever use epoxy as a filler on a loose shaft/head. I have a Talormade wood I am now working on.The head is slightly loose, but not enough to fit one wrap of masking tape. I don't actually know how to shim a head/shaft or how loose it can be before action needs to be taken. Can you help me out here ?

      Regards, golfshooter.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: dynamic flo

        Epoxy excels in torsion (twisting) but fails miserably in compression (ie as a filler).

        There are beaded epoxies which help take up some slack, but if you've got a .350 hosel and a .335 shaft, the answer lies in what's known as a "Bushing shim" ferrule - you epoxy it both inside and out, and stick it in the hosel. Put the shaft in the bushing and voilà! Space taken up.

        A little loose is OK - shafting beads or beaded epoxy will take care of it. Sloppy loose needs a shim or a bushing ferrule.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: dynamic flo

          Originally posted by LowPost42 View Post
          Epoxy excels in torsion (twisting) but fails miserably in compression (ie as a filler).

          There are beaded epoxies which help take up some slack, but if you've got a .350 hosel and a .335 shaft, the answer lies in what's known as a "Bushing shim" ferrule - you epoxy it both inside and out, and stick it in the hosel. Put the shaft in the bushing and voilà! Space taken up.

          A little loose is OK - shafting beads or beaded epoxy will take care of it. Sloppy loose needs a shim or a bushing ferrule.

          Thank you for sharing the information about the shimming. I have done some reading on John Kaufmans' site. Finally some info that does spell things out in a fashion people can understand.
          I have to say that in the section titled FLO vs COG he recognised that getting an accurate result when trying to test the shaft/head vertically is very difficult, simply because it is hard not to 'twang' the shaft. I agree but with practice it can be done and repeated. When he tests the shaft on a horizontal plane there is next to no effect no matter where the weight is in respect to the shaft. I am assuming this is because the effect of gravity is equal across it. I have proved this is so and you are right.
          When testing vertically all bets are off and the effect of S1 and N2 try to stabilise. The interesting thing is that with the luck of a novice I actually ended up building the lob wedge, and a 3 wood, exactly as you have said and they punch way above their weight.

          http://www.csfa.com/techframe.htm

          Best Regards, golfshooter
          Last edited by LowPost42; 11-30-2010, 03:09 AM. Reason: fixed the quote

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: dynamic flo

            FWIW, I twang vertically. I find it easier to pull the shaft straight up against the jaws of the clamp.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: dynamic flo

              Originally posted by LowPost42 View Post
              FWIW, I twang vertically. I find it easier to pull the shaft straight up against the jaws of the clamp.

              Don't know why I didn't think of that ,it would be much easier.
              I forgot to mention that I made a spine finder out of 40mm tubing and three KTM shielded bearings. Found a piece of metal about 3mm thick,and shaped so it fitted half way round the piping then straight out forming a bracket to fit into a vise. A little shimming here, some epoxy there and a coat of red paint, looks like a bought one. Don't you just love those containers full of bits and pieces you have collected for decades, ignoring your wifes' pleadings that you throw it out. And yet again it reveals just the thing you were looking for.

              Regards,golfshooter

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: dynamic flo

                Originally posted by golfshooter View Post
                Don't know why I didn't think of that ,it would be much easier.
                I forgot to mention that I made a spine finder out of 40mm tubing and three KTM shielded bearings. Found a piece of metal about 3mm thick,and shaped so it fitted half way round the piping then straight out forming a bracket to fit into a vise. A little shimming here, some epoxy there and a coat of red paint, looks like a bought one. Don't you just love those containers full of bits and pieces you have collected for decades, ignoring your wifes' pleadings that you throw it out. And yet again it reveals just the thing you were looking for.

                Regards,golfshooter
                That's how I made my first - a compression fitting (popped the caps off, put the bearings in, put the caps back on) and then a couple tip bearings (one for .335, one for others to .370)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: dynamic flo

                  I want to make the swing weight tester Kaupman describes in his writings I posted, doesn't seem too difficult and well worth the effort.
                  It has reminded me of a conversation I had with another builder. Some one came to him wanting to reshaft a late model Callaway. On pulling the head they discovered a lead slug jammed down in the hosel.

                  golfshooter.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: dynamic flo

                    Originally posted by golfshooter View Post
                    I want to make the swing weight tester Kaupman describes in his writings I posted, doesn't seem too difficult and well worth the effort.
                    It has reminded me of a conversation I had with another builder. Some one came to him wanting to reshaft a late model Callaway. On pulling the head they discovered a lead slug jammed down in the hosel.

                    golfshooter.

                    By lead slug do you mean a flat piece or a piece with a stem or a cylindrical piece?

                    The former is a hosel plug - it keeps epoxy from oozing into the head. The other two are known as shaft tip weights or hosel weights (depending on their construction) - designed to get swingweight/MOI up.

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                    • #11
                      Re: dynamic flo

                      I have seen a plastic version of one of those plugs in a fuji shaft and guessed that was what it was for. He assures me it was a weight. Is it common practice to have to adjust swing weight in this way on a product as well known for quality as Callaway? I would have thought their quality control when machining would be better than that. It has me thinking that I need to make a swing weight tester as a necessity. I'll have to ask him what it weighed. The "dark side" indeed.

                      golfshooter.
                      Last edited by golfshooter; 12-02-2010, 04:53 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Re: dynamic flo

                        It's a common practice to insert tip or hosel weights as a means to increase swingweight, yes. The other method with wood heads is to use hotmelt (this is the tour van method), but not everybody is a) comfortable or b) equipped to hotmelt.

                        Now, come straight from Callaway with a tip weight? That does sound a little strange. But if the shaft's been replaced by anybody else, not so strange. Especially if the request was "more head feel, but no lead tape, please".

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